Knife Information

Double Bevel Knife Sharpening — How to Do it Right

Double Bevel Knife Sharpening Double bevel knives are incredibly versatile. They are one of the most commonly found knives in commercial kitchens and home kitchens alike. If you have ever been knife shopping at a homewares store, you have most likely only seen double bevel knives.  Simply put, they have an asymmetrical edge when looking down the knife, and knives are most often called “50/50” grinds, meaning the edge of the blade is shaped like the tip of a triangle. Double bevel knives can be very easy to sharpen with the correct technique and lots of practice, and if you follow these steps you’ll be push-cutting newspaper in no time. 1) The right whetstones. Choosing the right whetstone for the job is critical in ensuring a satisfactory result. Usually for most knives, maintenance can be done with a 1000 Grit Whetstone. A whetstone with this grit will slowly remove microchips, and can be used for maintenance on a regular basis. To polish the edge for increased sharpness, a higher grit stone can be used. The most common polishing grit for most knives is a 6000 Grit stone. The most popular grit in combination stones (a stone composed of 2 faces of separate grits) is the 1000/6000 Grit stone. However, most soft generic stainless steels will not perform well above 3000 grit. This is because the more you polish the steel, the less “toothy” the edge becomes, as you lose the micro serrations left by coarser stones.  For a knife that has larger chips, a lower grit (coarser) stone must be used first, in order to abrade the steel much quicker. We recommend a 280 or 500 grit to start, then progress to the 1000 Grit after this. Once you have the correct stone, let's make sure it’s in the right condition. 2) A flat stone is a happy stone. As we are going to be pushing our knife up and down the length of the stone, the stone needs to be flat to achieve an even edge. Over time, a stone will wear out in particular areas (called “dishing”) and needs to be returned to a flat state to be effective. A flat blade on a dished stone simply won’t sharpen up as well as a flat stone.  This can be done cheaply with sandpaper and a flat surface, or much easier and quicker using the Atoma or similar style “Lapping Plate”. For a worn out stone, draw horizontal and vertical gridlines about an inch apart. Place this side of the stone on a flat surface, onto the abrasive side of some sandpaper and abrade until the lines disappear. Alternatively, wet the stone after drawing the lines, place on a flat surface with gridlines facing up, and rub with the Atoma Plate until the lines disappear. Some stones require soaking before use. Check the instructions with your stone or ask your retailer. Most stones benefit from 10 minutes of soaking in water. Do not permanently soak your stones. Now that your stone is flat and prepared, we’re ready to sharpen. 3) The Correct Grip For easy sharpening, we want to use what’s called a “pinch grip”, with your thumb on the side of the blade towards the heel, a finger down the spine, and locking your wrist and hand in place.  4) The Correct Angle  There are several different ways to ascertain the best sharpening angle, and this can be done using some angle guide clips or angle wedges. These are intended as guides, and should not be used beyond giving you an indication of the best angles to use. To begin, most Japanese knives are best sharpened at around 14-15 degrees.  5) Let’s begin! Using your free hand, press with 2 fingers towards the tip of the blade. Place the knife on the wet surface of your stone closest to you. You want firm pressure, but not so much pressure that you can’t sustain an even angle when sharpening. Push in a long, even, steady stroke to the end of the stone. On the release of pressure at the top of your stroke, slide the knife back towards you in the same position. It is important to lock your arm, wrist, and hand to ensure your blade stays at the same angle the entire way through your sharpening strokes.  Repeat this motion while slowly walking your fingers down the blade unti you reach the heel after around 20 strokes per side.  6) The Burr Perhaps the most important part of sharpening any knife is feeling for the burr. As you sharpen, you wear steel off the blade and fold this edge over to the other side, forming a small lip that you can actually feel. See if you can feel this burr forming on the opposite side of the blade. If you can’t, keep going with your sharpening until you can feel a pronounced, even burr the entire length of the blade.  7) Repeat for the back side Follow the above steps for your opposite hand. If you’re now sharpening on your non-preferred side, don’t worry! You’ll soon become comfortable with practice, learn to lock your wrist, arm and hand and take it slow.  8) Progressing through the grits Once you’ve achieved a strong burr on the opposite side, make one stroke on your initial sharpening side, this will centre the burr. You can now move up to your next grit. 9) Polishing & Burr Removal Repeat this step on your higher grit stones, using slightly less pressure. Polishing does not require much force. To remove the remainder of the burr from the blade, you can run in softly through some cork, newspaper, or pass it over denim.  You should now be the owner of a very sharp knife!
Japanese Chef Knives - The Gyuto - Chefs Edge

Japanese Chef Knives - The Gyuto

When we talk about Japanese chef knives, the one you may be most familiar with is the Gyuto. Let’s dive into the origins and history of this tool, and the different ways you might use this world renowned chefs tool.   What Exactly Is It? The Gyuto is the Japanese version of the western chef’s knife and is very versatile — it can be used for everything from chopping vegetables to slicing different kinds of meat. Their length can range from between 18cm and 30cm, and usually have one long curve from heel to tip. This profile may vary slightly from region to region, as some blacksmiths prefer a taller Gyuto, some prefer a shorter height from heel to spine Regardless of the variations in profile, this slightly curved blade allows for many different styles of cutting. The Origins And History These blades emerged as a response to and inspired by western knives that Japan imported during the end of the 19th century, during the Meiji era. The supply of these knives increased for two reasons after this period.  First, until this time Japan had sealed itself off from the world, meaning very little foreign culture and few foreign goods were allowed to enter Japan. When Japan began opening itself up, western-style chef’s knives flooded in along with European food culture. At this point, it became more common for people to start eating meat at dinner. The knife earned its name — Gyuto (literal translation meaning "cow sword") — because it was mainly used for cutting beef during the rise in meat-eating.  The second reason these knives were produced is because swords traditionally made by were no longer in great demand. While they still produced katanas and other weapons, blacksmiths turned to making kitchen knives as their rise in popularity proved to be an increasingly lucrative trade. Using a Gyuto Just like a western-style chef’s knife, it is ideal for a range of different tasks, and can be used a few different ways.  Rock-chopping: With a firm grip on the handle, begin your cut with the tip of the blade, and without lifting the knife off the board, contact the blade with the board all the way down to the heel, sliding the blade forward as you cut. Repeat this motion by lifting the heel of the blade in the air and rocking back and forth along the blade length. Pull-cutting: Start with the heel of the blade the back of your produce, contact the blade to the board from heel to tip, slicing through your produce. Great technique for proteins.  Push-cutting: With the blade parallel to and off the cutting board, using the flatter part of the blade toward the heel, push down and forward at a 45 degree angle. Once pushed through your produce and contact with the board is made, pull up and back in the same direction and repeat. The tip area, being nimble and small, makes it excellent for piercing tough meat and making fine cuts. The blade length varies based on what you are likely to use it for. Shorter Gyuto are are more nimble but long blades give you more blade area for larger cuts of meat or vegetables. Final Thoughts Rich in culture and history, the Gyuto knife would be a great addition to any kitchen if you’re interested in upping your home-cooking game. We consider it to be the first knife in your collection, as it can handle almost all manner of tasks. Opt for a 180mm-210mm if you prefer a smallish blade, or choose a 240mm blade if you prefer much longer knives for your tasks. 
Choosing The Right Chef Knife For You - Chefs Edge

Choosing The Right Chef Knife For You

Never heard of a Gyuto? No idea what SG2/R2 is? Double or Single Bevel? Don’t panic, we’ll explain what you need to know when picking out a Japanese Chef knife. If you’re in the market to purchase a Japanese kitchen knife, you might be looking for a timeless, meaningful gift, interested in the culinary arts, a chef, or simply wanting to cook a delicious meal for your loved ones. There are many different Japanese knives, so much so it can be a little overwhelming to make a choice. Here, we cover a few main points to consider when choosing the right Japanese chef knife for you.   Blacksmith Taking the maker of your knife into account can give you an idea of the overall quality you will be receiving. The manufacturer will influence the design, balance, performance, and price of the knife. Different blacksmiths will also prefer to use particular steel, which may have some benefits over other knife steels available. As the craft of knifemaking is a traditional art form passed down through generations, it is something Japanese blacksmiths hold very dear. Through the application of these varying techniques, each blacksmith continues the traditions of their forefathers, producing a knife that is unique to that families history, a culmination of (sometimes) hundreds of years of tradition. Some people prefer to have matching sets from one blacksmith, while others do not mind mixing and matching different blacksmiths to create a set that they are happy with. This is personal preference. Style The style of knife you buy depends largely on what you’re looking to do with it and what you are preparing. Whether you’re preparing sushi or peeling vegetables, the process of chopping and slicing is very different and a different knife will be required. Make sure you know how you are primarily looking to use the knife so you can select the correct style. A home cook that would just like to own a high-performance knife might lean towards a Santoku between 160-180mm, whereas a professional chef with a wide variety of tasks to complete may opt for a Gyuto of 210mm length or more, and a petty or small utility knife to cover the smaller tasks at hand. Blade Material/Steel Combinations We could write an entire article just about this! (In fact, we might just do that!) The type of steel used in a Japanese chef knife may not seem overly important, (as long as it’s sharp, right?) Not quite! The blade material will impact many things; how long your knife lasts, how easy it is to sharpen, the overall look, and more. You may consider getting a knife made of the simpler AUS8, Molybdenum Vanadium, or VG1 steels if you are just entering into this market and feel overwhelmed by the choice. This type of knife is more chip resistant and a little tougher than other options. If you’re a more advanced user of knives and you’re comfortable putting more care and effort into them, consider using some of the higher hardness, more complex stainless steels like VG10, R2/SG2, SRS-15, AEB-L, HAP40 or ZDP-189. Then you must consider the carbon steels. They have a higher maintenance requirement, but they can be used by all skillsets. Most Japanese blacksmiths will prefer to use the traditional Japanese chef knife steels, made by Hitachi Metals. These are the White Paper Steels (Shirogami), Blue Paper Steels (Aogami). There are some slight variations of Blue and White paper steels, but they are essentially about as close to the samurai sword steels of hundreds of years ago we have today. They are high in carbon content, resulting in the steel being harder than almost all other knife making steels, ensuring they will stay sharper for longer. They are, however, what is called ‘reactive steel’. This means they will oxidize (rust) and form a ‘patina’ (a discolouration of the steel) and also develop rust spots if they are not kept dry between uses. In some cases, 15 minutes left wet will be all it takes to form early rust spots. This is avoided by proper care and maintenance, but also by a blade construction technique called ‘san-mai’, which uses a core or cutting edge of high carbon steel, with a softer stainless steel clad on either side. This results in exceptional performance with minimal maintenance. Size A larger knife generally means you can perform more work with it, however, your workspace should also then need to accommodate a larger knife. The knife you purchase should not be longer than your cutting board is wide. That being said, you don’t want your knife to be too small, or too large to perform everyday tasks. A general purpose knife for most like a Santoku of 160-180mm is, therefore, a great place to start. Once your Santoku becomes either too large or too small, it’s time to expand! Look for petty knives around 100mm for smaller delicate tasks, and Gyuto’s up to 240-300mm for larger tasks like carving meats, but beware of bones! Handle Material/Shape The handle material may impact how you grip the knife, how sturdy the knife feels as you use it, as well as the appearance of the knife. A steel handle, a feature of many western knives may slip or not feel as comfortable in the hand and a timber handle crafted into the shape of an octagon. The octagon handle shape is one of the marks of a traditional japanese chef knife, as it allows the edges of the octagon to fit into the grooves of the fingers once the handle is grasped in the hand. Chefs Edge has a preference towards the octagon handle, and as such we partner with craftsman worldwide to create stunning unique handles made from exotic timbers. Bevel Angle Ratio The traditional Japanese chef knives (Yanagiba, Sujihiki, Deba etc) are designed to have a single bevel. This one-sided bevel angle is perfect for sashimi slicing, but is not well suited to everyday cooking at home or in a professional kitchen for general use. The Japanese blacksmiths have realized this, and almost always craft the Gyuto/Santoku/Nakiri/Bunka with an even 50:50 bevel to accommodate the western chef with a varied set of kitchen tasks. HRC The HRC of a knife refers Rockwell Hardness Scale. A knife with a higher HRC, in general, will retain its edge for longer, but can be more brittle. This is why a Japanese chef knife should never be used to chop bones, frozen objects, or hard foods (sometimes a big sweet potato is a no no!) It’s also important to remember that not all steels behave the same at higher hardness, and higher hardness is not the sole determining factor of knife performance. Just because something has a high HRC rating doesn’t make it a better knife. A regular European chef knife made from a softer steel may be hardened to 55-56 HRC, but a Japanese knife made from Aogami Super or ZDP-189 may be hardened anywhere up to 67-68 HRC. At the end of the day, there are a wide number of factors to take into account when choosing the right knife for you. If you get stuck, please don’t hesitate to get in touch by any of the channels on our website, or send us an email to info@chefs-edge.com.au!